In Milan, fashion in all its forms with Calcaterra, Emporio Armani and MM6
Milan Fashion Week delivered an interesting second day on Thursday, turning the spotlight on the essence of fashion. Namely creation, beautiful products and desirability, with a notable return of the great feminine classics, reinterpreted each time in a new and different shade by each house. Among others, Emporio Armani played with fashion in a joyful spirit, while playfulness was showcased at MM6, and Calcaterra was chic and sober.
This season, Calcaterra created a powerful collection with a pure design, focused on natural materials and a natural palette. Everything was precisely thought out, the weights, the lengths, the cuts, resulting in powerful designs. Timelessly elegant pieces that make women feel special in their everyday lives.
The voluminous wool coats with wide collars gently wraped the body, as did the cosy fringed scarves in the same colours. The coats were flared at the back like mini capes. A large men's jacket was worn unstructured with drooping shoulders in coordinated trouser ensembles, or was feminised, cinched at the waist, combined with straight mid-length skirts.
Designer Daniele Calcaterra was inspired by the wave and integrated its undulating movement in the bottom of tops and asymmetrical mini-skirts. His looks were monochrome, mainly in light colours - white, cream and ivory - with a few khaki, sage green, lacquered red or black silhouettes. A feeling of comfort and solidity emanated from the collection, rendered by the choice of tactile materials such as curly wool, silk and cotton crepe, gabardines and superb leathers.
Daniele Calcaterra's style is refined. Only a few buttons here and there, no frills, except for the long hairs that add volume to the bottom of dresses, the micro-rods embroidered in abstract sculptures on one or two dresses and large jewels in the shape of leaves handmade in brass. A botanical touch to underline the link with nature.
A change of style at MM6, which this season has strongly revived the spirit of its founder Martin Margiela, offering a playful collection, where pieces with double or even triple use fit together like a puzzle, which can be recomposed endlessly. At first glance, the show seemed to present a classic casual and cool style for a casual youth, a bit street, a bit grunge. Nothing was missing: denim, jackets, baggy trousers, tattered jumpers, men's jackets, maxi waders.
But on closer inspection, there was always an unusual detail that caught the eye, and reality revealed itself to be different behind the appearances, from clever constructions to artificial layering of pieces. In keeping with the house tradition, the backstage area was revealed right on the stage, with the teams in grey coats helping the models change, removing this or that piece of the puzzle before returning them to the catwalk in a completely different look.
A sleeveless coat, made up of just its lining at the top, was returned to its original shape by adding a jacket cut from the same wool. The same sleight of hand was used with a trench coat and shirt, completed by the tone-on-tone jacket which slipped on top seamlessly. An old jumper showed its frayed edges on what appeared to be a shirt that was sticking out, when in fact, it was just a white cotton border underneath a trompe-l'oeil knit. A hoodie peeking out from under a jacket was nothing more than a scarf. And three layered waistcoats, in leather, quilted fabric and classic flannel were one and the same!
MM6 had a field day, also playing with two-in-one front and back designs. Jacket and trousers seemed to be made of old leather in the front, while they were made of denim in the back. The same with a pair of beautiful silver trousers, which turned out to be simple white cotton in the back. "Fashion is an attitude, it's a game. Rather than working on the archetypes of clothing, we wanted to explore the archetypes of the way we dress," he summarised.
At Emporio Armani, the girls clearly wanted to party. They came out onto the circular stage, like a large dance floor, with happy or mischievous faces with big smiles as if Giorgio Armani had just told them a good joke backstage.
The feeling of lightness and insouciance was translated into young and dynamic looks, elegant but not too much so, with a touch of mischief, accessorised with berets or bowler hats. The outfits were short with skirts, dresses and shorts above the knee. And fuchsia pink added a pop of colour to grey flannel suits.
The Emporio girl hides her game, behind schoolgirl looks, with a white blouse with big buttons and a black bow, or behind Lady Armani looks with superb shimmering velvet suits. She doesn't hesitate to break the codes of classic sobriety with a few extravagant accessories, such as endless black leather thigh-high boots, exaggerated rows of pearl necklaces or pink Plexiglas bracelets. In the evening, she goes out to party in a short dress sparkling with big coloured sequins.
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