Brioni back in the spotlight at next Pitti Uomo

Translated by
Nicola Mira
Nov 12, 2019
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Brioni will be the star of the show for its 75th anniversary. The luxury menswear label owned by the Kering group, which hasn’t shown in three years, has announced it will hold a special presentation in Florence on January 7, the opening day of the next Pitti Uomo. The event will be produced by fashion historian and curator Olivier Saillard, and will showcase the Fall/Winter 2020-21 collection designed by Brioni’s creative director Norbert Stumpfl.

Brioni’s very first show at Palazzo Pitti in Florence, in 1952 - DR

Austrian designer Stumpfl was poached by Brioni from the creative studio of Berluti to lead design at Brioni, which is being relaunched. Three years ago, heavily affected by the economic crisis, losing commercial momentum and struggling with the bottom line, Brioni embarked on an in-depth reorganisation. Yet, until now, it has found it hard to be consistent and relevant, judging from the succession of managers and designers who have tried to revive an ailing Brioni in recent years.

Featuring at Pitti Uomo is therefore the first major commercial operation for the Italian tailoring label in three years. Brioni is planning to make a splash, with “an installation that will pay tribute to the label’s tailoring tradition,” as it indicated in a press release.

It will be a grand come-back in Florence for Brioni, the first label ever to stage a menswear show in the city, in the Sala Bianca at Palazzo Pitti in 1952. “[Brioni] is a benchmark for the entire menswear industry,” said the CEO of Pitti Immagine, Raffaello Napoleone.

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